Treasures of Delhi: Part 1

When I initially thought about places to visit in India, I thought about going to Agra to see the Taj – Done!, partying at the beaches of Goa – in the works, and visiting the hill-stations of Himachal Pradesh – pending.  What I didn’t expect, however, was that Delhi, where I’m currently living, has so much to offer.

Here’s a couple of my favorite spots:

The Lotus Temple

The temple was built back in the mid 80’s and it’s shaped as…you guessed it…a Lotus Flower.  Having visited the temple, however, it is no wonder that it has won a number of architetural awards including the GlobArt Academy in the year 2000 to Fariborz Sahba, the temple’s architect.

The Parliament Hosue and India Gate

 If you visit the Parliament House then you must visit India Gate as both of these sites are near by.  The walk to India Gate on Rajpath was perhaps the most quiet and peaceful walk I've had since moving to Delhi.

Red Fort

There’s such a contrast between Old Delhi, where Red Fort is located – busy, crowded, noisy – and Red Fort – quiet, peaceful, majestic – that it enhances your visit to Red Fort; definitely worth the visit.  Also, if you’re in Old Delhi to visit Red Fort you might as well swing by the original Karim’s for some great authentic Indian food.

Nizamuddin Dargah

For those of you that have been to Nizamuddin Dargah, you know that getting there is literally half of the battle.  However, as the Qawwals begin to sing their Qawwalis you can’t help it but fall into this trance like state that just sucks you right in.  Next thing you know, an hour has gone by and you feel totally relaxed and overcomed with joy; at least that was my experience.

Next up is Qutb Minar, Old Fort, Humayun's tomb, and my all time favorite place ever: Akshardam

Delhi Heat

Hallelujah, the heat streak in Delhi has broken!  At least the 100+ temperatures.  With the monsoon season coming, temperatures have dropped, but humidity has risen.  However, I am finding it much more bearable to be outdoors now.

During the month of June though, stepping outside felt like walking into an oven.  I know I am extremely fortunate to be living in an air conditioned room, get driven to work in an air conditioned car, and work in an air conditioned office.  Though ironically, when it is extremely hot out and everyone has their air conditioning on, it strains the power grid and we frequently lose electricity.  After my first week, I too became unfazed as the lights and other electronics flickered on and off, not letting it interrupt conversations. 

I did try to sightsee some in Delhi in the heat, though you could probably tell I was a bit heat weary.  At Humayun’s Tomb, Jen Hsieh and I would rest in the shaded areas or in the wonderfully cool chambers tomb before preparing ourselves to venture into the hot sun again.  We carried bottles of water, but by the end of our time at the tomb (which wasn’t long at all), the water was actually hot – not just warm, but near scalding hot.  So we skedaddled to the nearest ice cream trolley outside of the gates for some cool, refreshing mango bar.  Only 5 rupees – score!

Walking in the Delhi heat, I frequently saw stray dogs lying in the roads, on the sidewalks, or even in piles of trash.  I would try to see if their chests were moving - if they were still alive - but it was often hard to tell.  It was only because they were there day in and day out that I assumed they were still alive and just overwhelmed by the heat as well.  It saddened me to see how these stray dogs must be suffering under the harsh sun, mostly skin and bones.  Their only fault is to have been born on the streets.  After mentioning this to a friend from Delhi, he had this to say which both made me laugh and gave me comfort:

Don't feel too sorry for stray dogs, at least not all of them. Many of them are ruffians, they form packs and make merry at night barking and running around the neighbourhood, chasing cars and motorcycles. Many of them are quite happy doing this hooliganism. They get waste food from restaurants and compassionate people. Rich and poor - all types of people - take care of these dogs; you will notice that many security guards adopt and take care of these dogs and give them company at night. There are animal care hospital trusts which take care of hurt stray dogs (and cows, goats, cats, donkeys). My mother also takes care of 6-7 stray dogs in our neighbourhood (vaccinations, medical aid when they get hurt etc.) And there are many more like her. Even in slums, you'll see that these dogs know who is compassionate and hang around those houses where they are taken care of. There is no organized care but many of them get along on the basis of individual human kindness and compassion. So there is another side to the story.

Thank you, friend, for reminding me that there are dimensions at play that I do not see or cannot assume to know; that I cannot make judgments based upon the preconceived notions I bring with me.

One fort here, another fort there, here a fort, there a fort, everywhere a fort fort

There are many many forts in India. Most of these forts are castles that existed for each raja or chieftain in major capital cities in India. The British called these castles “forts” because it was the more commonly used term in Britain.

Red Fort - New Delhi

Agra Fort - Agra

Over the past two months, I’ve been able to visit several forts in Delhi, Agra and Jaipur, including the two UNESCO World Heritage Sites: Red Fort in New Delhi and Agra Fort in Agra. 

What are World Heritage Sites? These are properties all over the world that exhibit cultural and/or natural heritage and are of outstanding universal value. For more info on the criteria, go here: http://whc.unesco.org/en/criteria/ 

Heritage education is becoming integrated into the curriculum in some schools here in New Delhi. Schools will send their students on heritage walks, either through organizations like my client or conduct their own, to encourage students to become more aware of and in tune with the local heritage that surrounds them. The places range from the heritage sites, like the Red Fort, to other cultural venues, like Humayun’s Tomb or parts of Old Delhi. Much of what students get out of these walks is hands-on awareness of places that they probably didn’t know much about (history and culture) or ever consider visiting. Another benefit of these heritage walks is that it provides teachers another way to teach their students in a more interactive way.

India has over 1.2 billion people and a cultural history that spans over 4,000 years. Various languages are spoken, various religions are practiced and various cuisines are eaten all over India. There is a breadth of culture in this country and 3 months is only enough to get a glimpse of it. I’ve had my share of visiting forts in the past 2 months (probably enough for now) and there is still so much more to see!

Amber Fort (Light and Sound Show) - Jaipur

Amber Fort - Jaipur

Oh, the places you'll go. Part 1: Agra & Delhi

“A journey is like marriage. The certain way to be wrong is to think you control it.” - John Steinbeck

A friend calls it the 80% rule: you can only enjoy India up to 80%. For example, one moment you’re giddy with excitement enjoying everything India has to offer and the next moment you’re cursing everything around you. My trip to Delhi and Agra perfectly illustrates that rule.

80% Transcendence: I flew in Friday night and met up with a group of Michigan friends with whom I would visit the Taj Mahal the next day. We slept for a few hours and then woke up at some ungodly hour. The seven of us (and a our driver/tour guide) piled into our pre-hired van to make the four-hour trip to Agra. The drive to Agra was an education in Indian life (you’ll note some parallels here to my previous description of life in Bangalore): traffic clogged Delhi’s streets, auto-rickshaws, trucks, motorcycles, bicycles, and cows vied for the road, children panhandlers tapped the windows for money, makeshift homes dotted the landscape in increasing frequency as we left the city, street vendors (also known a wallahs as in “Chai Wallah” for someone selling chai) lined the road for nearly the entire trip, and the roads were filled with bumps, holes, and dirt.

Once we arrived at the Taj Mahal, however, all other earthly considerations were forgotten. A little background for the uninitiated: the Taj Mahal is essentially the best love letter in the history of man. Built in the 1600s by a Mughal Emperor to commemorate his love for his recently deceased wife, it took 20 years and 20,000 workers to build and cost somewhere on the order of $12 billion in today’s dollars. Visiting is truly a religious experience. Upon arrival you come upon a large “Red Gate,” which serves as a herald that something magnificent is behind it. As you can see from the photos below, it is a beautiful piece of work filled with ornate marble reliefs. As with the rest of the Taj Mahal’s design, the gate is completely symmetrical.



Then, through the red gate’s doors you see it. Transfixed, you slowly walk through the archway as one of the most beautiful buildings in the world slowly reveals itself to you.







The Taj Mahal glows with a radiance I’ve never seen. It takes your breath away and never gets old. It’s beauty only grew upon further inspection as I found flowers carved in marble, marble filigree inlaid in marble blocks, and beautiful symmetrical patterns throughout the structure. My favorite was the flower inlay over the doorways.



After peeling ourselves away from the intoxication of the Taj Mahal, we made our way around Agra stopping at Agra Fort, a second burial shrine, and a temple. The bottom right photo is a view of the Taj Mahal from Agra Fort.



During this part of the trip, I started to take pictures of India’s people, a mini-project I call “Faces of the India.” I’ve posted a few photos below and, in the coming weeks, I will share a few more. Taken together it makes for an interesting cross section of humanity that I hope will give you a sense of India’s rich cultural diversity.



The next day, we visited Delhi’s Lotus Temple, another breathtaking building. It’s one of seven Baha’i temples around the world, each with their own amazing architecture.


 As you can see, it was a weekend filled with cultural exploration, spiritual enlightenment, and architectural wonder, all of which I was able to share with a group of friends…

20% Frustration: …which brings us back to the 80% rule. Little did I know that after such a transcendent weekend I was setting myself up for a difficult 20%. Thinking that my flight left at 6:30 and believing that I had the proper documentation in my backpack, I made my way to the airport. The problem was that my flight didn’t leave at 6:30, it left at 6:10. And the documents I had with me were the wrongones . The next two hours were perhaps the most frustrating I’ve had in a long time. I was only five minutes late for boarding… but I was in the wrong terminal. And my phone didn’t work. And I couldn’t log on to the internet without my phone. And I didn’t know where any of my friends lived. Or if I could catch the next flight. Or… well, you get the idea. After two hours of a cyclical period of anger and trouble shooting, I gave up. I knew of a hotel nearby and, despite not wanting to spend the money, realized it was the only hope I had for a place to sleep, a good meal, and free internet where I could book a new flight. In retrospect it was all my fault, but the frustration put a bit of a damper on what was mostly - 80% to be exact - an amazing weekend.

Next Post: Guru Talk: Lessons from Harish Hande, founder of Selco

Getting My Routine Down

I decided to take the opportunity to work at PharmaSecure in Gurgaon, India for a number of reasons.  The first reason is that I am very interested in the work that PharmaSecure is doing.  The company allows for drug consumers in India to verify whether medicines that they purchase are authentic via text message – more on this later.  The second reason is that I’ve never travelled to the eastern hemisphere – enough said!  And the third reason is to challenge myself –that’s right.  Not since when I moved from Puerto Rico to the U.S. some 20 years ago have I lived in a place where I’m unfamiliar with the language, am still learning about the culture, and stick out like a sore thumb.

People that know me best would say that I’m a regimented person.  I personally think that developing a routine is a great way to get acclimated to new environments.  So here’s what I’ve been doing for the past two weeks to get used to India.

I start every morning with a workout.  One of my goals this summer is to shed all the weight I put on during the school year so this workout is a must.  In addition, Shaun-T and his crew of fitness freaks shame me into continuing this routine since I can never keep up with them.  They’re great motivators–try it everybody.

After the workout, I leave the guesthouse (pictured above) and walk down the street to the metro.  I lucked out that I live ~ 5 mins walking distance from the metro station.

On my way to the metro I tend to pass one or two of these fruit vendors.  I typically buy something to snack on throughout the day.  In addition, one of these fruit vendors likes to sing in the morning which puts me in a great mood.

On to the metro…

The Delhi Metro system is comprised of six lines with 142 stations and a total length of ~117 miles.  This metro is one of five metro systems in the entire world that operates at a profit without subsidies.  As someone who depends on the metro to get around, I have to say the Delhi metro is both convenient and impressive.  You can pretty much get anywhere in Delhi by way of metro + rickshaw–malls, work, tourist spots, etc.  Also, the trains come every 2-5 minutes.  The best part is that it only costs me ~40 rupees or around 70 cents round trip.

I typically try to get to the metro before 8 am.  If I do that, the ride to work is pleasant.  However, if I show up anytime on or after ~8:30 am, my ability to squeeze myself into the train is tested over and over again until I finally make it on to a train. 

Here’s a look at Gurgaon.  The city is the second largest city in the state of Haryana.  Many multinational companies such as Google, Microsoft, Siemens, Yahoo and Oracle among others have offices in Gurgaon.  PharmaSecure’s office is located at the City Court building –that beautiful building next to the clock tower (center-left in the above picture).

 At PharmaSecure, I’m currently working with the sales and marketing group.  One of my current goals is to develop a system for the company to assess potential customers.  I’ll definitely elaborate more on this in one of my future posts.

 After work, I stop by my neighborhood market to pick up some food for the next day.  I enjoy the convenience of having this type of market nearby.  They also don’t have as much variety as the markets that I’m used to going to so I've turned into somewhat of a minimalist.

After making a quick stop at home, I usually link up with a rickshaw in order to head “downtown” to Hauz Khas Village.  One note about negotiating with rickshaw drivers, always aim for a lower price and be willing to walk away; they’ll still win the negotiation ;-).

At Hauz Khas Village, I typically meet up with whoever is hungry for dinner.  Here’s a pic of a group of us WDI Fellows at Yeti.

On the weekends, I either spend time checking out the sites in or outside of Delhi or hang out somewhere that has AC.  Here’s me with some of the new Ross admits at Ambiance Mall in Gurgaon.

There’s my routine everybody.  Some days I do more, some days I do less. 

First week!

Since the end of February, I very much looked forward to my summer internship working in India as a WDI fellow with Start Up!, an angel investor, incubator and consulting firm that strives to launch, strengthen, and scale social ventures in India, and now it has become reality.

It’s been close to a week since I landed in New Delhi, India, with no working phone and no sense of direction. While the first few days were rough in getting used to the different pace and infrastructure of life here in Delhi, I now have a working phone and become accustomed to the random honking, constant haggling for an auto rickshaw ride, and of course, the intense summer heat (109 degrees Fahrenheit today!). Thankfully, I’m now more in the know of the various neighborhoods, what each area has to offer, and how to haggle a decent price with the auto rickshaws. 

Furthermore, my stomach has been fairly content with the level of spicyness it gets to indulge in every day :) In addition to the spice, I even got to try some Himalayan food in Hauz Khas Village.  This is the Yeti special non-veg (clockwise starting with the tingmo (the white bun - tastes like a chinese mantou), lungs, tongue, sausage, and meat).

I've also made a few new friends along the way, especially since I'm one of the early birds here in Delhi. Knowing other people here has definitely helped make the transition less daunting. 

As for my internship, I started this past Monday, and I can already tell that it’s going to be a busy summer but in a good way.

Start Up! was founded in 2007 and since then has partnered with social ventures in the non-profit and for-profit continuum. These social ventures are ones that aim to maximize philanthropic capital in the bottom of the pyramid (BOP). The Start Up! office and team are small, vastly different from my past work experiences in corporate America. However, it’s great because this means many opportunities to take ownership in my projects and take the initiative to grow and learn more about the social enterprise space in India.

I have several internal and external projects to pass my time for the next 12-13 weeks, apply what I learned this past year at Ross, and further refine my business skills. Internally, I will be developing a refined business plan and financial model for Start Up!, creating a business plan for Start Up!’s business accelerator with two other interns who will be joining me soon, and reviewing the design of an incubation toolkit for internal use. My external project is expected to be evaluating the market feasibility of a social enterprise.  They provide young semi-urban Indian women with an online platform to share their thoughts on various issues through video blogs. I’m definitely looking forward to working with an organization whose mission is to empower women.

That’s all from me for now. I will take more pictures soon. I'm looking forward to hanging out with the WDI Fellows who will be joining me here in India very soon!